April 18, 2005I need to fix an oil leak. I'm told it's my front main seal. I'm pretty machanically inclined but dont have all the tools nor the knowhow to fix this myself. Is there anyone locally (Elk Grove, CA) that would be willing to do this for me. I can't pay much, but I can provide food and beer or other beverage if prefered. The leak isn't real bad, yet, but would like to get fixed in the next month. If I need to take a day off from work to get it done, I can.
Forums : California Chapter : Front main seal (Go to chapter) (72 Views)
April 18, 2005I'm just as bad with that stuff, but for a piece of pizza I'll lay under the truck and act like I know what I'm doing
Seriously, hope someone can help you out. To many truck issues in NorCal these days. I just got all new plugs and found out I need 3 new coil packs. Hoping that cures my problems.
April 18, 2005I hope so too Kenny. I just replaced my starter, alternator and master brake cylinder. over $300 later. did everything myself. oops, forgot, also replaced my fan clutch.
April 18, 2005Hmmm...that won't be much fun.
Actually it won't be that bad. You'll have to disassemble pretty much the entire front of the engine (radiator, accessories, that sort of thing), so you can get to the timing cover. The harmonic balancer will be the toughest part; pay close attention to how it's on the crank. It's very easy to throw a puller on it, and then spend an hour trying to pull off the end of the crankshaft (Eric and I did that on mine ). Once the cover's off, you pull the timing sprockets and chain, then you can get to the seal. While you're in there, I strongly recommend replacing the timing chain tensioner and timing chain guide (about $50 worth of parts at the dealer, and the dealer only), and it might be a good idea to also do the chain. Purchase one to have available, then inspect the rollers very carefully to see if they're starting to come apart. If there's even the slightest indication that they're starting to fail, replace it. Count on the better part of a day to knock it out.
April 18, 2005I live in EG my inlaws live right around the corner from you. Ive been helping them instal new tile in there house the last couple weekends and Ive noticed the truck in the garage with the hood up. I have lots of tool and would be willing to help, except I could prolly not be able to do it until next week sometime let me know.
I'm a expert at BS, telling lies and drinking beer
April 18, 2005I agree wiht JW 100% if your gonna tear it down that far might as well replace stuff now.
April 18, 2005Thanks, Steve, I'll email you. I'm actually a couple weeks away from being able to do it.
btw, you could have stopped by.
April 19, 2005I think the guide and tensioner aren't really maintenance items (the chain certainly isn't), but their failure can lead to catastrophic results. When mine went, it ultimately caused a loss of oil pressure, badly damaged the timing chain, littered the oil pan with very large metal bits, and nearly clogged the oil pump pickup. It's SUPER-cheap insurance to swap that stuff out while you're torn in that far, and will only add about an hour and $120 to the tally. I wasn't very far away from the timing chain completely breaking, which would have ended my motor. I'm sure that given the low mileage on your engine, you aren't close to having those issues, but it is cheap insurance...
April 19, 2005Yeah, but JW, remember, yours didn't eat the tensioner, guide, chain, etc., until something over 325k miles... that's a pretty darn long service life for any mechanical component!
Most timing chains are good to around 100k miles. Small Block Fords (289/302/5.0/351) are a bit of an exception but that has more to do with nylon (yes, PLASTIC) gears on some years, and the fact that the SBF does not use a guide or tensioner, so any stretch in the chain results in slop in the cam timing. On any other engine, with a tensioner, the stretching in the chain just causes a very gradual retard of the cam timing, slightly reducing power.
So, back to the real issue - the front seal. As JW mentioned, you're going to have to remove the front crank pulley, which will almost certainly require a puller. And, most engines bays don't have enough space for a puller AND the radiator at the same time, so the cooling system has to be drained radiator/fan shroud removed, serpentine belt removed, and then you can take a look at the seal.
On a 5.0, the seal is driven in from behind, so the front cover has to be removed (don't know what genius designed that!). On many other engines the seal comes out from the front for easy maintenance, and all you do is pry it out at this point.
If you do have to take off your front cover, then you probably also have to remove the frontmost bolts on your oil pan, since they probably bolt into that cover.
If you've never done all this before it can rapidly turn into a full weekend. If you HAVE done it before you should be able to do it all by yourself in ~4 hours (that's where I'm at on a Mustang after several 'opportunities').